Unlocking the Depths of Buna: A Journey through Ethiopian and Eritrean Coffee Culture
As I step into the cozy confines of my local coffeehouse, my gaze is immediately drawn to the vibrant images adorning the walls. There, I see Ethiopian farmworkers sifting through a sea of roasted coffee beans, their faces alight with the pride of their labor. Beside them, a jebena – a sacred, fragile vessel used for brewing coffee – stands as a testament to the rich cultural traditions of Ethiopia and Eritrea.
Yet, as the self-fashioning customers rush through, clutching their tall cups, I can’t help but wonder if they truly grasp the deeper significance of the images before them. For you see, the story of coffee in these regions runs far deeper than the commodity we’ve come to cherish in the West.
You see, for my family and many others like us – Ethiopian and Eritrean refugees who found a new home in the United States – the act of brewing and sharing coffee, known as buna, is more than just a means of caffeine consumption. It is a sacred ritual, a communal practice, and a touchstone of identity in the face of displacement.
As one writer eloquently describes, buna is “a significant cultural practice that captures the culture, creativity, and self-determination of displaced Ethiopian and Eritrean communities.” It is a way for us to bridge the geographical distance from our homeland and recreate a sense of home in this new, unfamiliar country.
The Ritual of Buna: A Celebration of Community and Connection
Growing up in the Northeast neighborhood of Kansas City, Missouri, the smell of burning myrrh and popping coffee beans was a familiar harbinger of the hours-long buna ritual that would soon unfold. One woman would always take the lead, carefully washing the beans, roasting them, grinding them, and then meticulously watching over the brewing process in the jebena.
As the preparation unfolded, a remarkable transformation would occur. The bare walls of the apartment would fade into the backdrop, and a familiar place – simultaneously home and a memory – would be conjured through the shared laughter, sorrow, nostalgia, and life histories exchanged over the course of three small cups of coffee.
These three cups – known as Abol, Tona, and Baraka – honor the three wise men who traveled from Ethiopia to visit the newborn Jesus, sustaining themselves with coffee along the way. Each cup represents a stage in their journey, and the ritual itself serves as a way to connect with our cultural heritage and spiritual traditions.
As one source describes, the Ethiopian coffee ceremony is a “rich cultural tradition” that “brings family and friends together” and “represents the warmth and hospitality of the Ethiopian people.”
But buna is more than just a ritual – it is a women-led practice, a space where the stories, experiences, and contributions of Ethiopian and Eritrean refugee women are centered and celebrated. In the diaspora, buna allows these women to come together, share information, and create a sense of home that is not bound by geography or the position of the sun, but rather by the connections they forge in the present moment.
Coffee as Commodity vs. Coffee as Culture
It’s fascinating to consider the stark contrast between the way coffee is perceived in the West and the profound cultural significance it holds in the Ethiopian and Eritrean context. For many of us in the United States, coffee is primarily a means of staying alert and productive, a quick caffeine fix to power us through the day.
But for my community, buna is a ritual of connection, healing, and self-determination. It’s a way to bridge the distance from our homeland, to share our stories, and to affirm our dignity and respect in the face of displacement. As the writer Christiane Assefa so eloquently states, “Delineating between buna and coffee is a useful and critical exercise that allows for thinking beyond the hegemonic narrative that celebrates the commodity form of coffee and centers instead buna as a valuable site of healing exchange and placemaking for Ethiopian and Eritrean communities.”
While corporations like Starbucks may attempt to celebrate the origins of coffee, their focus is often on the commodity itself – the tall cups, the roasted beans, the frothy lattes. But the true essence of coffee culture in Ethiopia and Eritrea lies in the communal practice of buna, a tradition that transcends the material and speaks to the very heart of our identity and resilience as displaced peoples.
Honoring the Diversity of Coffee Culture
As I reflect on the rich tapestry of coffee culture around the world, I’m reminded of the incredible diversity that exists beyond the homogenized images we often see in Western media and marketing. From the centuries-old traditions of Ethiopia and Eritrea to the unique brewing methods found in places like Vietnam, Colombia, and Japan, coffee is a global phenomenon that defies simplistic categorization.
And here at Sips Coffeehouse, we’re committed to honoring this diversity and celebrating the cultural significance of coffee in all its forms. Whether it’s the intricate, meditative tea ceremonies of Japan or the lively, communal buna rituals of East Africa, we believe that understanding the stories behind our coffee is essential to truly appreciating the depth and richness of this beloved beverage.
So the next time you find yourself sipping on a freshly brewed cup, I encourage you to pause and reflect on the cultural traditions that have shaped its journey to your lips. Who knows what fascinating stories and perspectives you might uncover, just waiting to be discovered?
